Readers of my blogs must have realized that traveling is my passion and with a combination of writing(blogging) and photography the same has been shared for others to experience or learn.Having visited Jerusalem and the Vatican city it seemed strange that Varanasi in my own country was undiscovered during my tours.Regarding Muslim holy sites, i have been to Jeddah on many occasions by ship but as everyone knows, visiting Mecca is banned for non-Muslims, hence the same eluded me.In India have visited the precincts of largest mosques in Hyderabad and Delhi besides visiting the Hazrat Chisty dargah in Ajmer during a visit to the Pushkar Fair in 2003, hence an understanding of Islamic culture in India.
Varanasi or Kashi or Benares is home to one of the world's oldest religion ,Hinduism.Finally on Wednesday(9-11-2011) i finally managed to reach Varanasi, part of my "Delhi-Lucknow-Varanasi-Kathmandu-Pokhra-Chitwan" solo- backpackers tour.
After touring Lucknow i boarded the "14236/BE BSB Express" to Varanasi at 2315 hrs on Tuesday(8-11-2011) reaching Varanasi at 0700 hrs on Wednesday(9-11-2011).At the station caught a rickshaw which first took me to various hotels in Varanasi,all full due to the auspicious Dev Deepavali occasion celebrated on "Kartik Purnima(Full Moon)" day on Thursday(10-11-2011) of which i was unaware, the typical back-packer tourist.Finally managed to get accommodation at "Hotel Arti" situated at a walking distance from the "Harishchandra Ghat" on the banks of the Ganges river.
The room nos 25 allotted to me was under repairs, it had a t.v set but the toilet and bathroom was in total chaos. Hence i must have been able to get accommodation as others must have refused the same.The hotel charges were Rs 500/day definitely exorbitant for the facilities and condition of my hotel room but Varanasi being a tourist as well as religious city rents accommodation at a premium, especially on "Kartik Purnima" festive occasion.The manager told me that he would get the toilet facilities repaired but since i was just staying for two days i told him it wouldn't matter much to me, habitual to living in low grade lodges while on solo-tours.Thankfully, hot water was available from the tap and after a quick bathe made my way into Varanasi city, a city studied through history texts,films and literature.The first thing i did was to have a street side breakfast of Varanasi's famous dish,"Puri-Bhajee and Jaleebi's".I was surprised at the cost price of a sumptuous "Puri/Bhajee Jaleebi" dish being just approx Rs 24, inflation having stood still in Varanasi.After breakfast i went to the local cyber-cafe, blogged a bit,haggard from two previous days of living on trains and hence later went to my hotel for a little rest.Inquired about buses to Sunauli or Gorakhpur with the hotel manager and since the bus services were erratic and inconvenient decided to travel to Gorakhpur by train.Requested the manager to book me a train ticket for Friday(11-11-2011) to Gorakhpur.Also gave a pant and a shirt for laundry, prices reasonable and delivery prompt. After a brief rest i left my hotel and headed towards the ghats of the Ganges .
Varanasi has ample research articles as well as guides on the internet let alone written books and hence i won't probe much into the history of the ghats of Varanasi."Harischandra Ghat" was just a few minutes walk from "Arti Hotel" and the first sight that greeted my eyes was the funeral pyre lying on the banks of the Ganga with a few curious Caucasian tourists observing the same from a distance.The famous words from the Bhagvad Gita entered my thoughts, quote, "When someone dies, pretend that nothing has happened".I myself have faced two successive deaths in my immediate family with the demise of my parents and hence understood the sorrows and pains of death.I walked casually along the ghats on the banks of the Ganges beginning from "Harishchandra Ghat", the closest ghat near my hotel residence and headed in the direction of Dashaswamedh ghat, the main pilgrims bathing ghats.I was surprised at the fact that the "Ghats Of Varanasi" , besides being used for religious ritual bathing was actually a huge open air crematorium, death and life co-existing in perfect harmony.A certain section of the Ghats are also used for drying and washing clothes, the clothes strung for drying along a section of the ghats at close proximity to Harishchandra ghats.I was approached by many canoe owners for a ride along the Ganges ghats, a favourite tourist itinerary, but refused the same first deciding to explore the ghats from my viewpoint.
While walking along the banks of the stepped ghats noticed the fortress like edifice of Rana Mahal Ghat and saw a few posters advertising a free boat tour on "Kartik Poornima(Thursday(10-11-2011)" evening beginning at 1700 hrs.Curious as usual inquired about the same at the local chaiwalla daba on the steps of the Darbanga Ghats adjoining the "Rana Mahal Ghats" and to my surprise the boarding point was to be this chaiwalla's corner shop, called "Ramguru Chai Shop".Thats the beauty of Varanasi, common people or simple daily chores might be of significance as this is a spiritual city.Had a cup of Chai in the company of a few Caucasian tourists at "Ramguru's Chai Shop" and decided to attend this significant event on ."Dev Deepavali" also called the "Diwali of Gods" or "Festival of Lights of the God's". "Dev Deepavali" is celebrated on the Full Moon of the Hindu month of Kartika (November-December) and takes place 15 days after Diwali and held once every year and this boat ride was called the "Kartik Poornima Festival of 5001 Diya's(candle wick Lights)" as Mr Suresh intended releasing a total of 5001 diya's(Lighted wick candles) floating on the Ganges river. Hence destiny had put me at the right place at the right time.
Finally after strolling along the ghats took a private boat ride from Kedar Ghat at approx 1230 hrs, a peaceful solitary exploration of the Varanasi ghats by row boat.The boatman explained me the significance and prominence of a few significant ancient buildings along the ghats, all dating back at least a century old.There are more than 100 ghats along the entire length of the banks of the Ganges river in Varanasi, the cremation ghats being only two ghats, "Harishchandra Ghat" and "Manikarnika ghat".The most popular ghats for pilgrims as well as tourists are the Dashashwamedh ghat,Manikarnika Ghat,Kabir Ghat, Assi Ghat and the Harishchandra Ghat which was just a few meters away from my hotel.The Ghat that we all have read, seen and a part of movie folklore, the Manikarnika ghat was a frightening sight, human bodies in a queue on funeral stretchers for cremation purposes in full public view on the banks of the Ganges river.Honestly, i am less afraid of death after visiting and viewing Manikarnika Cremation Ghat, realizing that death is a part of completion of the entire human cycle of living on planet earth.From the boat a person gets the best view of the Ghats, both the cremation as well as the bathing ghats with photography of cremation not allowed.From Manikarnika ghat the boatman turned the boat back to Dashashwamedh Ghat and explained me the difference in water levels of the Ganga river between peak monsoon flooding and peak summer.During peak dry summer season the Ganges narrows itself to a small stream at its narrowest end of the Varanasi Ghats while in Monsoons a small Hanuman temple situated on the lowest end of the ghat steps is completely immersed for approx four months.When we passed by the same temple on boat we saw a man performing wrestling exercises on the temple corridor.Wrestling is very popular in Varanasi with one of the ghat buildings having a prominent "Akhada(Wrestling club)" advertised on its centuries old granite like fortress walls
.
The boat ride was approx of 45 minutes and i paid the boatman Rs 120 and made my way to the hotel.Lunch was just a glass of Lassi from the milk shop situated opposite hotel Artias as my bowels were still abnormal, lassi served in earthen ware pots which are then discarded unlike normal re-usable glasses .After a brief rest went to the main city walking along the straight road leading to various ghats from the city road.Varanasi is dirty as a city and farm animal butchered body parts are not uncommon on the narrow roads.Walking along the road towards Dashashwamedh Ghat came across the sign Madanpura road and realized that akin to Mumbai, Varanasi has its Hindu and Muslim localities,hence a close comparison to the Old city of Jerusalem.Spent the entire day exploring the streets and by-lanes of ancient Varanasi, the street corners leading to a ghat being excessively crowded.Later in the evening had chicken noodles at a roadside dabba hoping that a change of diet would normalize my bowels.Spotted a beer shop in the near vicinity and was happy to sip a Kingfisher beer(Rs 95) at the shops bar.The owner of the bar Mr Babu.Srivastava was familiar to Mumbai knowing my residential building and a colorful character who made it rich through sheer luck and grit.He was previously a driver to some Bollywood stars in Mumbai and later set up a string of liquor shops in Varanasi and seemed successful.Afer my beer i made my way to the cybercafe situated at the intersection road leading to Harishchandra Ghat, a well equipped cybercafe with webcam facilities and blogged for almost three hours, returning back to my hotel at approx 2130 hrs. At the hotel collected my train ticket on the "12538 Maduadih Motihari express" for Gorakhpur from the hotel manager, relieved at getting a ticket.
End of a hectic day of sightseeing in one of the World's oldest and holiest city's.
Thursday(10-1-201) DEV DEPAWALI CELEBRATIONS :- Woke up at 0500 hrs, bowels still malfunctioning and after relieving myself had a hot water bath.At 0545 hrs made my was to the Ghat and there were a lot of tourists, many of them oriental rather than the usual Caucasians seen in Varanasi.As usual i saw a burning pyre at Harishchandra Ghat , the next busiest cremation ghat in Varanasi after the eternal cremation Manikarnika ghat.Walked upto Dasaswamedh Ghat and boarded a boat along with a young Dutch tourist as sharing a boat would be cheaper than hiring it individually, the main reason "Group Package Tours" are cheaper.The boatman took us on the usual boat-ride that i had done the previous day only difference that this was in the opposite direction heading towards "Assi Ghat" and not Manikarnika ghats at the other extreme end of the river.Today was the auspicious "Kartik Purnima Day" and hence Dashashwamedh Ghat was packed with early morning bathers.This was a scene i have personally seen numerous times in media newsreels, films, television and print media,but, being there personally and viewing an auspicious occasion is a different experience altogether.The boat-ride lasted an hour and after paying the boatman Rs 150/person made my way back to the hotel passing by the funeral pyres of Harishchandra Ghat.Observed a few Pie dogs searching amongst the cremated ashes and realized that some unburnt human remains might be the occasional food of these stray dogs, a bizarre fact of life.Also observed a pair of Sadhu's sitting near the remains of a just cremated body and remembered a "National geographic Episode" where a similar looking sadhu of the "Aghori Sect" of sadhus described the ritual of consuming human flesh, a common ritual amongst the Aghori Sadhu's of Varanasi.On the way to the hotel had a typical "puri bhajee/Jalebi/tea(Rs25)" breakfast, the signature cuisine of Varanasi City.Refreshed myself and decided to explore the nearby narrow street lanes.Walked the street from Harishchandra Ghat to Dashashwamedh Ghat and was surprised at the massive crowd of pilgrims queuing to get entry into the bathing ghats at Dashashwamedh, absolutely packed to capacity.Strangely, viewing the same ghat from the river by boat doesn't give the actual image of the mass sea of human crowd that congregates at this ghat for the ritual "Kartik Purnima " Ganges holy dip. Returned back from Dashashwamedh and then decided to travel in the opposite direction towards "Assi Ghat" more famous as a tourist haunt.The walk to "Asii Ghat" from Harishchandra Ghat was tedious and i spotted a cycle shop loaning cycles on hire at the main Assi Ghat road intersection.Nothing better than touring Varanasi on a cycle and hence on a deposit of Rs 1000 i hired a bike for the entire day.Cycled around Assi Ghat locale and realized that the poshest tourist hotels in Varanasi were located here, the locality being much cleaner than other Ghat locales in Varanasi.Cycled to "Benares Hindu University", getting a feel of Varanasi traffic,narrow crowded roads with heavy traffic akin to Mumbai traffic.Cycling is popular amongst locals as well as tourists in Benares, a convenient and cheap mode of transport, especially in the narrow crowded lanes adjoining the Varanasi ghats.Honestly, apologize for bragging, buta person who cycles in peak Mumbai traffic is capable of cycling on any of India's roads least of all ancient Varanasi.Cycled through many of the narrow Varanasi Lanes, a city with temples at every street and some classic ancient private residences.I finally decided to return the bike early and relax a bit as the evening schedule was hectic, the rental charges being a paltry Rs 30/Day.Strangely, cycling seemed to have stabilized my erratic bowels, feeling a little better after pedaling.Later had an apple pie at a Western tourist restaurant operated by a owner from Nepal.Took some suggestions from him about traveling to Kathmandu from Varanasi.Spent the next hour blogging at a cybercafe, my stress reliever on tours as well as at office at home!After blogging went over to "Chilled Beer Bar", the famous liquor adda in downtown congested Varanasi.Ordered a Tuborg beer(Rs 100) and while sipping the same met an interesting acquaintance named Deepak.Goon.Honestly, as a solo-backpacker i have never ever suffered from loneliness or lethargy since i am either busy photographing and writing or picking up casual conversations with strangers in different locales, some memorable and enlightening some just casual local gossip.Mr Goon guided me to restaurants having good non-vegetarian food and he also agreed with me that Varanasi was city akin to Jerusalem, ancient and where two religions, Muslims and Hindus existed in close proximity in harmony.Varanasi also has the dubious distinction of being one of the dirtiest city's in India and ironically that same reason might be responsible for its immense popularity with tourists besides the religious significance associated with traditional Hinduism.After beer went according to Mr Deepak.Goon's direction to Hotel New Broadway and had a mutton Biryani at the Aman restaurant situated within this hotel.This locality of Varanasi was away from the main ghats road of Old Varanasi city and had modern buildings.Hotel New Broadway was a typical grade 1 non-vegetarian hotel with a pricey menu.Ordered a mutton Biryani at Aman restaurant, the first meal that i had in a normal graded restaurant since my entire solo-tour, beginning from Delhi.I was just surviving on "Dabba food", lassi's and fruits with occasional leakage from my bowels, partial diarrhea .Strangely, my bowels got back to normal after the "Biryani Meal" and cycling exercise , reasons unknown to me but i presume pungent food disagrees with my digestive system.After the stomach-full Biryani made my way to Arti hotel, had some rest and later made my way to the Ghats for the World famous "Dev-Deepavali (Kartik Poornima)" festival.As usual, on entering "Harishchandra Ghat" a funeral pyre was in progress and seems i also got immune to death and thanks to "Harishchandra Ghat" lost my fear of death or dying ,enjoying every minute of living life.Walked past the funeral pyre, a few onlookers and pie dogs near the body, rest of the sea of humanity least bothered, continuing with their normal method of living.All the steps of different ghats were decorated with "Diya's(Wick candles)" some arranged in graphical designs of gods , saints and other important personalities. The lighting of "Diya Lamps" on the steps of the Ghats is a modern day practice having first been started in 1991 by Pandit Kishori Raman Dubey( Babu Maharaj) lighting the lamps on Dashashwamedh Ghat and since that year this tradition has continued on all the Ghats in Varanasi. At Kedar Ghat came across the "Free Boat Ride" group, most Caucasian foreigners and a few Indians including the sponsor Mr Suresh, a N.R.I from London.Mr Suresh has been sponsoring the "Deep-Depavali Kartik Purnimam- 5001 Diya's lighting" since the last 35 years , a child of the "Hippy Era" that thronged Benares, definitely a prosperous businessman.Varanasi also attracted and still attracts a lot of the "Hippy Generation style" tourists from the present "Millennial generation" and consumption of "Soft Drugs" is absolutely normal.
The small life-raft type rowing boat was packed to capacity and set sail from Kedar Ghat at approx 1830hrs.This boat had another small tow boat attached to it with a few other volunteers on that small skiff boat for releasing "Floating Diya's(Candle Lights)" into the Ganges river.Releasing 5001 Diya's in a short time-span is a real toil and not just plain boat cruising fun,real work.We gradually rowed into the middle of the Ganges with a awesome view of the colourful Diya's(Wick) lighted on the steps of ghats and began our job of releasing lighted Diya's(Wicks) into the Ganges from our boat. It was a beautiful sight for pilgrims and tourists ashore, a mass throng of humanity witnessing "5001 Diya's" lit by us and gradually released into the Ganges while tourists in boats witnessed the illuminated ghat steps by diya's and buildings by electric light decorations. The Ganges river had boat traffic problems as there were numerous tourist boats plying the river stretch for a view of the Ghats from the river, a beautiful sight on a full moon night.Accidents of boats sinking have happened in the past and hence there was a big police patrol boat cruising the river and warning boat tourists about personal safety over a loudspeaker.For the first time in my life since quitting sea-sailing i sat continuously on a floating vessel for three and a half hours non-stop, a helpful voluntary job of releasing diya's into the mystical and holy Ganges river.
Remember, all the "Floating Diya's(Candle Lights)" on the Varanasi Ganges river seen in the media and television all over the the World was lit by a group of volunteers from two row boats. Picked up casual conversation with a young Jewish and a Canadian couple and everyone was mystified by the sacred ghats of Varanasi.We returned back ashore at approx 2230 hrs and it was a hurried lonely walk since the crowds had thinned a bit , passing another two cremation dead bodies at "Harishchandra Ghat" on the way to my hotel.I had to pack up my bags for early morning departure to Gorakhpur by train from Varanasi.Had a half-insomniac night as usual waking up early at 0500hrs.A quick bathe, got dressed and left the hotel at 0615 hrs, boarding a rickshaw(Rs 80) to Varanasi station.
The main train indicator board indicated that the train would arrive on Platform Nos 1 but at the last minute it was reverted to Platform nos 3.My jogging fitness proved useful as i sprinted up the railway steps with my luggage onto platform nos 3 to board compartment S2 into seat Nos 48 when the train arrived at approx 0800 hrs.Varanasi city and the cremation ghats did definitely affect my view on death and life.
Varanasi or Kashi or Benares is home to one of the world's oldest religion ,Hinduism.Finally on Wednesday(9-11-2011) i finally managed to reach Varanasi, part of my "Delhi-Lucknow-Varanasi-Kathmandu-Pokhra-Chitwan" solo- backpackers tour.
After touring Lucknow i boarded the "14236/BE BSB Express" to Varanasi at 2315 hrs on Tuesday(8-11-2011) reaching Varanasi at 0700 hrs on Wednesday(9-11-2011).At the station caught a rickshaw which first took me to various hotels in Varanasi,all full due to the auspicious Dev Deepavali occasion celebrated on "Kartik Purnima(Full Moon)" day on Thursday(10-11-2011) of which i was unaware, the typical back-packer tourist.Finally managed to get accommodation at "Hotel Arti" situated at a walking distance from the "Harishchandra Ghat" on the banks of the Ganges river.
The room nos 25 allotted to me was under repairs, it had a t.v set but the toilet and bathroom was in total chaos. Hence i must have been able to get accommodation as others must have refused the same.The hotel charges were Rs 500/day definitely exorbitant for the facilities and condition of my hotel room but Varanasi being a tourist as well as religious city rents accommodation at a premium, especially on "Kartik Purnima" festive occasion.The manager told me that he would get the toilet facilities repaired but since i was just staying for two days i told him it wouldn't matter much to me, habitual to living in low grade lodges while on solo-tours.Thankfully, hot water was available from the tap and after a quick bathe made my way into Varanasi city, a city studied through history texts,films and literature.The first thing i did was to have a street side breakfast of Varanasi's famous dish,"Puri-Bhajee and Jaleebi's".I was surprised at the cost price of a sumptuous "Puri/Bhajee Jaleebi" dish being just approx Rs 24, inflation having stood still in Varanasi.After breakfast i went to the local cyber-cafe, blogged a bit,haggard from two previous days of living on trains and hence later went to my hotel for a little rest.Inquired about buses to Sunauli or Gorakhpur with the hotel manager and since the bus services were erratic and inconvenient decided to travel to Gorakhpur by train.Requested the manager to book me a train ticket for Friday(11-11-2011) to Gorakhpur.Also gave a pant and a shirt for laundry, prices reasonable and delivery prompt. After a brief rest i left my hotel and headed towards the ghats of the Ganges .
Varanasi has ample research articles as well as guides on the internet let alone written books and hence i won't probe much into the history of the ghats of Varanasi."Harischandra Ghat" was just a few minutes walk from "Arti Hotel" and the first sight that greeted my eyes was the funeral pyre lying on the banks of the Ganga with a few curious Caucasian tourists observing the same from a distance.The famous words from the Bhagvad Gita entered my thoughts, quote, "When someone dies, pretend that nothing has happened".I myself have faced two successive deaths in my immediate family with the demise of my parents and hence understood the sorrows and pains of death.I walked casually along the ghats on the banks of the Ganges beginning from "Harishchandra Ghat", the closest ghat near my hotel residence and headed in the direction of Dashaswamedh ghat, the main pilgrims bathing ghats.I was surprised at the fact that the "Ghats Of Varanasi" , besides being used for religious ritual bathing was actually a huge open air crematorium, death and life co-existing in perfect harmony.A certain section of the Ghats are also used for drying and washing clothes, the clothes strung for drying along a section of the ghats at close proximity to Harishchandra ghats.I was approached by many canoe owners for a ride along the Ganges ghats, a favourite tourist itinerary, but refused the same first deciding to explore the ghats from my viewpoint.
While walking along the banks of the stepped ghats noticed the fortress like edifice of Rana Mahal Ghat and saw a few posters advertising a free boat tour on "Kartik Poornima(Thursday(10-11-2011)" evening beginning at 1700 hrs.Curious as usual inquired about the same at the local chaiwalla daba on the steps of the Darbanga Ghats adjoining the "Rana Mahal Ghats" and to my surprise the boarding point was to be this chaiwalla's corner shop, called "Ramguru Chai Shop".Thats the beauty of Varanasi, common people or simple daily chores might be of significance as this is a spiritual city.Had a cup of Chai in the company of a few Caucasian tourists at "Ramguru's Chai Shop" and decided to attend this significant event on ."Dev Deepavali" also called the "Diwali of Gods" or "Festival of Lights of the God's". "Dev Deepavali" is celebrated on the Full Moon of the Hindu month of Kartika (November-December) and takes place 15 days after Diwali and held once every year and this boat ride was called the "Kartik Poornima Festival of 5001 Diya's(candle wick Lights)" as Mr Suresh intended releasing a total of 5001 diya's(Lighted wick candles) floating on the Ganges river. Hence destiny had put me at the right place at the right time.
Finally after strolling along the ghats took a private boat ride from Kedar Ghat at approx 1230 hrs, a peaceful solitary exploration of the Varanasi ghats by row boat.The boatman explained me the significance and prominence of a few significant ancient buildings along the ghats, all dating back at least a century old.There are more than 100 ghats along the entire length of the banks of the Ganges river in Varanasi, the cremation ghats being only two ghats, "Harishchandra Ghat" and "Manikarnika ghat".The most popular ghats for pilgrims as well as tourists are the Dashashwamedh ghat,Manikarnika Ghat,Kabir Ghat, Assi Ghat and the Harishchandra Ghat which was just a few meters away from my hotel.The Ghat that we all have read, seen and a part of movie folklore, the Manikarnika ghat was a frightening sight, human bodies in a queue on funeral stretchers for cremation purposes in full public view on the banks of the Ganges river.Honestly, i am less afraid of death after visiting and viewing Manikarnika Cremation Ghat, realizing that death is a part of completion of the entire human cycle of living on planet earth.From the boat a person gets the best view of the Ghats, both the cremation as well as the bathing ghats with photography of cremation not allowed.From Manikarnika ghat the boatman turned the boat back to Dashashwamedh Ghat and explained me the difference in water levels of the Ganga river between peak monsoon flooding and peak summer.During peak dry summer season the Ganges narrows itself to a small stream at its narrowest end of the Varanasi Ghats while in Monsoons a small Hanuman temple situated on the lowest end of the ghat steps is completely immersed for approx four months.When we passed by the same temple on boat we saw a man performing wrestling exercises on the temple corridor.Wrestling is very popular in Varanasi with one of the ghat buildings having a prominent "Akhada(Wrestling club)" advertised on its centuries old granite like fortress walls
.
The boat ride was approx of 45 minutes and i paid the boatman Rs 120 and made my way to the hotel.Lunch was just a glass of Lassi from the milk shop situated opposite hotel Artias as my bowels were still abnormal, lassi served in earthen ware pots which are then discarded unlike normal re-usable glasses .After a brief rest went to the main city walking along the straight road leading to various ghats from the city road.Varanasi is dirty as a city and farm animal butchered body parts are not uncommon on the narrow roads.Walking along the road towards Dashashwamedh Ghat came across the sign Madanpura road and realized that akin to Mumbai, Varanasi has its Hindu and Muslim localities,hence a close comparison to the Old city of Jerusalem.Spent the entire day exploring the streets and by-lanes of ancient Varanasi, the street corners leading to a ghat being excessively crowded.Later in the evening had chicken noodles at a roadside dabba hoping that a change of diet would normalize my bowels.Spotted a beer shop in the near vicinity and was happy to sip a Kingfisher beer(Rs 95) at the shops bar.The owner of the bar Mr Babu.Srivastava was familiar to Mumbai knowing my residential building and a colorful character who made it rich through sheer luck and grit.He was previously a driver to some Bollywood stars in Mumbai and later set up a string of liquor shops in Varanasi and seemed successful.Afer my beer i made my way to the cybercafe situated at the intersection road leading to Harishchandra Ghat, a well equipped cybercafe with webcam facilities and blogged for almost three hours, returning back to my hotel at approx 2130 hrs. At the hotel collected my train ticket on the "12538 Maduadih Motihari express" for Gorakhpur from the hotel manager, relieved at getting a ticket.
End of a hectic day of sightseeing in one of the World's oldest and holiest city's.
 |
| Erecting the "Main Stage" in the morning at Dashashwamedh Ghat for "DEV DEEPAVALI" celebrations at Night. |
Thursday(10-1-201) DEV DEPAWALI CELEBRATIONS :- Woke up at 0500 hrs, bowels still malfunctioning and after relieving myself had a hot water bath.At 0545 hrs made my was to the Ghat and there were a lot of tourists, many of them oriental rather than the usual Caucasians seen in Varanasi.As usual i saw a burning pyre at Harishchandra Ghat , the next busiest cremation ghat in Varanasi after the eternal cremation Manikarnika ghat.Walked upto Dasaswamedh Ghat and boarded a boat along with a young Dutch tourist as sharing a boat would be cheaper than hiring it individually, the main reason "Group Package Tours" are cheaper.The boatman took us on the usual boat-ride that i had done the previous day only difference that this was in the opposite direction heading towards "Assi Ghat" and not Manikarnika ghats at the other extreme end of the river.Today was the auspicious "Kartik Purnima Day" and hence Dashashwamedh Ghat was packed with early morning bathers.This was a scene i have personally seen numerous times in media newsreels, films, television and print media,but, being there personally and viewing an auspicious occasion is a different experience altogether.The boat-ride lasted an hour and after paying the boatman Rs 150/person made my way back to the hotel passing by the funeral pyres of Harishchandra Ghat.Observed a few Pie dogs searching amongst the cremated ashes and realized that some unburnt human remains might be the occasional food of these stray dogs, a bizarre fact of life.Also observed a pair of Sadhu's sitting near the remains of a just cremated body and remembered a "National geographic Episode" where a similar looking sadhu of the "Aghori Sect" of sadhus described the ritual of consuming human flesh, a common ritual amongst the Aghori Sadhu's of Varanasi.On the way to the hotel had a typical "puri bhajee/Jalebi/tea(Rs25)" breakfast, the signature cuisine of Varanasi City.Refreshed myself and decided to explore the nearby narrow street lanes.Walked the street from Harishchandra Ghat to Dashashwamedh Ghat and was surprised at the massive crowd of pilgrims queuing to get entry into the bathing ghats at Dashashwamedh, absolutely packed to capacity.Strangely, viewing the same ghat from the river by boat doesn't give the actual image of the mass sea of human crowd that congregates at this ghat for the ritual "Kartik Purnima " Ganges holy dip. Returned back from Dashashwamedh and then decided to travel in the opposite direction towards "Assi Ghat" more famous as a tourist haunt.The walk to "Asii Ghat" from Harishchandra Ghat was tedious and i spotted a cycle shop loaning cycles on hire at the main Assi Ghat road intersection.Nothing better than touring Varanasi on a cycle and hence on a deposit of Rs 1000 i hired a bike for the entire day.Cycled around Assi Ghat locale and realized that the poshest tourist hotels in Varanasi were located here, the locality being much cleaner than other Ghat locales in Varanasi.Cycled to "Benares Hindu University", getting a feel of Varanasi traffic,narrow crowded roads with heavy traffic akin to Mumbai traffic.Cycling is popular amongst locals as well as tourists in Benares, a convenient and cheap mode of transport, especially in the narrow crowded lanes adjoining the Varanasi ghats.Honestly, apologize for bragging, buta person who cycles in peak Mumbai traffic is capable of cycling on any of India's roads least of all ancient Varanasi.Cycled through many of the narrow Varanasi Lanes, a city with temples at every street and some classic ancient private residences.I finally decided to return the bike early and relax a bit as the evening schedule was hectic, the rental charges being a paltry Rs 30/Day.Strangely, cycling seemed to have stabilized my erratic bowels, feeling a little better after pedaling.Later had an apple pie at a Western tourist restaurant operated by a owner from Nepal.Took some suggestions from him about traveling to Kathmandu from Varanasi.Spent the next hour blogging at a cybercafe, my stress reliever on tours as well as at office at home!After blogging went over to "Chilled Beer Bar", the famous liquor adda in downtown congested Varanasi.Ordered a Tuborg beer(Rs 100) and while sipping the same met an interesting acquaintance named Deepak.Goon.Honestly, as a solo-backpacker i have never ever suffered from loneliness or lethargy since i am either busy photographing and writing or picking up casual conversations with strangers in different locales, some memorable and enlightening some just casual local gossip.Mr Goon guided me to restaurants having good non-vegetarian food and he also agreed with me that Varanasi was city akin to Jerusalem, ancient and where two religions, Muslims and Hindus existed in close proximity in harmony.Varanasi also has the dubious distinction of being one of the dirtiest city's in India and ironically that same reason might be responsible for its immense popularity with tourists besides the religious significance associated with traditional Hinduism.After beer went according to Mr Deepak.Goon's direction to Hotel New Broadway and had a mutton Biryani at the Aman restaurant situated within this hotel.This locality of Varanasi was away from the main ghats road of Old Varanasi city and had modern buildings.Hotel New Broadway was a typical grade 1 non-vegetarian hotel with a pricey menu.Ordered a mutton Biryani at Aman restaurant, the first meal that i had in a normal graded restaurant since my entire solo-tour, beginning from Delhi.I was just surviving on "Dabba food", lassi's and fruits with occasional leakage from my bowels, partial diarrhea .Strangely, my bowels got back to normal after the "Biryani Meal" and cycling exercise , reasons unknown to me but i presume pungent food disagrees with my digestive system.After the stomach-full Biryani made my way to Arti hotel, had some rest and later made my way to the Ghats for the World famous "Dev-Deepavali (Kartik Poornima)" festival.As usual, on entering "Harishchandra Ghat" a funeral pyre was in progress and seems i also got immune to death and thanks to "Harishchandra Ghat" lost my fear of death or dying ,enjoying every minute of living life.Walked past the funeral pyre, a few onlookers and pie dogs near the body, rest of the sea of humanity least bothered, continuing with their normal method of living.All the steps of different ghats were decorated with "Diya's(Wick candles)" some arranged in graphical designs of gods , saints and other important personalities. The lighting of "Diya Lamps" on the steps of the Ghats is a modern day practice having first been started in 1991 by Pandit Kishori Raman Dubey( Babu Maharaj) lighting the lamps on Dashashwamedh Ghat and since that year this tradition has continued on all the Ghats in Varanasi. At Kedar Ghat came across the "Free Boat Ride" group, most Caucasian foreigners and a few Indians including the sponsor Mr Suresh, a N.R.I from London.Mr Suresh has been sponsoring the "Deep-Depavali Kartik Purnimam- 5001 Diya's lighting" since the last 35 years , a child of the "Hippy Era" that thronged Benares, definitely a prosperous businessman.Varanasi also attracted and still attracts a lot of the "Hippy Generation style" tourists from the present "Millennial generation" and consumption of "Soft Drugs" is absolutely normal.
The small life-raft type rowing boat was packed to capacity and set sail from Kedar Ghat at approx 1830hrs.This boat had another small tow boat attached to it with a few other volunteers on that small skiff boat for releasing "Floating Diya's(Candle Lights)" into the Ganges river.Releasing 5001 Diya's in a short time-span is a real toil and not just plain boat cruising fun,real work.We gradually rowed into the middle of the Ganges with a awesome view of the colourful Diya's(Wick) lighted on the steps of ghats and began our job of releasing lighted Diya's(Wicks) into the Ganges from our boat. It was a beautiful sight for pilgrims and tourists ashore, a mass throng of humanity witnessing "5001 Diya's" lit by us and gradually released into the Ganges while tourists in boats witnessed the illuminated ghat steps by diya's and buildings by electric light decorations. The Ganges river had boat traffic problems as there were numerous tourist boats plying the river stretch for a view of the Ghats from the river, a beautiful sight on a full moon night.Accidents of boats sinking have happened in the past and hence there was a big police patrol boat cruising the river and warning boat tourists about personal safety over a loudspeaker.For the first time in my life since quitting sea-sailing i sat continuously on a floating vessel for three and a half hours non-stop, a helpful voluntary job of releasing diya's into the mystical and holy Ganges river.
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| Varanasi Ghat Steps lit with "Diya's" on Dev Deepavali Day(Karthik Purnima).The lighting of "Diya Lamps" on the steps of the Ghats is a modern day practice having first been started in 1991 by Pandit Kishori Raman Dubey( Babu Maharaj) lighting the lamps on Dashashwamedh Ghat and since that year this tradition has continued on all the Ghats in Varanasi. |
The main train indicator board indicated that the train would arrive on Platform Nos 1 but at the last minute it was reverted to Platform nos 3.My jogging fitness proved useful as i sprinted up the railway steps with my luggage onto platform nos 3 to board compartment S2 into seat Nos 48 when the train arrived at approx 0800 hrs.Varanasi city and the cremation ghats did definitely affect my view on death and life.
